The Struggle toward safety

So I conferred with the loving wife. Sold it like a hard sell timeshare salesman. After eye rolling, she gave me permission to pull the trigger. Bought the place from a flakey guy in Texas. Closed in Alamosa and began to implement my grand plan: Scouting for routes. Finding a way down to the river that sets this otherwise worthless patch of desert apart. Hazards abounded. 100 ft drop-offs, snakes, the river at high water. Learned how to tie climbing knots. Bought climbing gears and anchors. Purchased pipe to construct rails and an expensive Bosch SDS-Plus drill to place anchors in the rocks. I was making my mark. Staking my claim. Trying to tame a wild and potentially dangerous piece of land. All I needed was google, gumption and a whole lot of money.

A Fall Trip to The Gorge

Listening to the sound of the lower rapid-more amplified this morning than it was last night.  Was it the rain that came through-late monsoon moisture from the pacific.

Strange, but the river was not loud enough last night.  I ran my river sound machine on my kindle.  The worse kind of sound machine is a packrat scurrying over galvanized tin roofing and Ikea bags.  I had enough of that soundtrack fromprevious  night this summer.  We are getting closer to keeping that brazen rat out of the boat shed.

Wow.  So still.  A lovely dawn.  The kids still sacked out beside me.  All I hear are the rapids, the early birds and my own breath.  Am trying to make myself stop working myself and the kids to death when we are here.  So much has been accomplished in a year's time

Ladder access, a zipline, a boat shed, two jobsite lockboxes and some missteps.  Scrapped the rock structure on top.  Too hard.  Scrapped the Airstream on top (Too easy for thieving tweakers to steal from us).  Changed our route down at least three times.  Have climbing anchors strung with aircraft wire to show our previous routes.  Decided we wanted to be as close to the river as possible-balancing relative safety with the thrill of being in the belly of the Gorge along the Rio Grande's shimmering flanks.  So maybe today I will focus on enjoying the place I've been killing myself to get to.  Old habits die hard but die they must.

The Beginnings of the Property

I had always fantasized about having a waterfront property be it the ocean, a lake or a river. I have something of an obsession with water. When I bought the small acreage in Ft. Lyon, Colorado, the selling point was it's proximity to public river access. Nearby public access was the best that I could hope for as private riverfront property was way out of my price range. Nonetheless, in the countless hours I poured over realtor.com and local realty websites, I came across a property that seemed too good to be true. It was located in a "subdivision" known as the Rio Grande Ranchos. 99% of the lots on the Rio Grande Ranchos looked like something out of West Texas. Rocky, flat, 5 acre tracts of virtually worthless desert land. To cover over this fact, sellers often included pictures of the Rio Grande river as if to intimate that the lot was on the river. Anyone who spent any time looking at the seemingly endless number of RGR lots on the market became inured to these false allurements of river frontage and looked for the featureless straw colored rectangle that betrayed the true property in question. One day as I was looking through the RGR lots, a rather dull activity, I came across a "river" picture that caught my eye. In the fine print it stated "river frontage". After scrutinizing the out of focus photo, I became convinced that this lot actually was located on the river. The price had recently been reduced from $10,000 to $6500, still several thousand more than the other lots. I called the realtor based out of Ft. Garland. She confirmed the property was still for sale but seemed rather reluctant to make the hour drive to get there. Instead, she gave us directions and invited us to go out and take a look ourselves. Always up for a roadtrip I loaded up the kids and headed out. It was February and on the chilly side when we stepped out of the car and into the middle of the San Luis Valley. The lot looked as featureless and dull as the hundreds of other lots in the RGR. I told the kids, "Check this out", and we proceeded to walk across the long 5 acre lot to the very back. The grass gave way to larger volcanic rocks, sage and cactus. Suddenly a vista appeared of a river snaking through a volcanic gorge far below. The kids were duly impressed. The next question was "Was there a way to get down into the gorge on the property?" We started exploring and were sobered by the steepness and height of the cliff walls beneath our feet. Although the view was pretty, I saw no point in pursuing the property if we had no way of reaching the water. After a few abortive attempts to descend on various ledges we found that by some rather haphazard climbing at the termination of a ledge upstream we could make our way down to the bottom. Upon reaching the bottom we found ourselves in a willow thicket that gave way to a section of grass. Upstream from us, a horse looked on intently. I guessed that it was one of the areas wild horses that had somehow found its way down into the gorge and had been unable to find its way out. The kids began climbing the tumbled down boulders along the partially frozen river. I warned them not to venture out onto the ice, not knowing how the deep the river might be. I wanted to be sure that we could create an access within the bounds of the lot before we committed but my heart nonetheless thrilled at the prospect of owning this beautiful place. On the way home we stopped in the delightful little village of San Luis and bought some homemade tortillas sold at the gas station. The kids unanimously gave the riverfront property a thumbs up. Now I had to convince the wife.

Ellie's First Trip into the Gorge

My 8 year old Eleanor accompanied us to the property this week. She negotiated the rocks and ladders well. Went into the river after a long hot day building the boat shed. Took her to the BLM side so she could experience what a strong current feels like even in relatively shallow water. One nice thing about the gorge in this section that even on the sunniest days there is a shady section either on at least one side of the river: East side in the morning; west side in the afternoon. Boat shed is coming along. It is much more solid after applying the tin. Hope to work on the roof next time around. Have 4 hrs worth of lumber and tin to bring down next time. Not looking forward to that.

Jealous of Those who floated the bottom half of Ute Mountain Run

Saw a group of kayakers go by the property the other day on the Rio Grande. I couldn't decide if they were a Alumni from a co-ed boy scout troop or some Taos locals. Whoever they were. They looked to be having fun. What is downstream from us? The remaining 18 miles. I am chomping at the bit. I have no one to pick us up so this complicates matters. I am not down with an 20 plus mile bike trip around Ute Mountain to get the car after our trip. I've contemplated a scooter, a motorcycle, a second cheap car parked at trail's end. I must see what is below us. I'm not even daunted by the hike out with kayaks in tow at Lee Trail. Maybe next year? Manana.

Inflatable Kayak trip Ute Mountain Run-The First 6 miles

After a rather harrowing tubing trip last year-brutal wind, cold and driving rain, I was apprehensive about taking my oldest three children down that stretch again. My fears were unfounded. After a rather damp night in our gorge bottom lean to we awoke and drove the suburban to Lobato Bridge. Seminole, the North-South road that roughly parallels the gorge, had some lake-like sections that made me grateful for the Suburban versus the Lexus which we normally bring. After we clippety-clopped across the bridge, I dropped the kids and the kayaks off. I had purchased the Pro-Package Sea-Eagle 370 kayaks off of Amazon in January after hours of research on inflatables. They were said to be suitable for up to Class 3 rapids and this would only be class 2. This would be their maiden voyage and ours as well as we had never kayaked before. I parked the 'Burb on the property and biked the 5 miles back upstream to the Bridge where the kids had the kayaks inflated and ready to go. We waded into the muddy-bottomed reeds and launched. Compared to tubes, we loved the control and forward progress that the kayaks afforded us. Kayak paddles require some getting used to. Puzzled over the adjustability aspect and what was appropriate for our current paddling style. My two oldest daughters, partnered on the other kayak, were having some disagreements about chain of command. After explaining that the person in the rear steers, they settled down in time for the first rapid just beyond the impressive cutout on South Pinon Hills Mesa. They negotiated the rapid without incident as did my son and I. It was good fun. Thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful vistas of the volcanic walls and the wildlife. Saw deer, owls, herons, eagles, and what seemed to be mergansers high tailing it downstream ahead of us. Funny thing: The following day, on our way to Alamosa, we encountered a group of kayakers at Lobato bridge in the morning. In the afternoon, my daughter noticed a heron and ducks heading downstream in the gorge at our property. A few minutes later the kayakers passed by. Strange that the birds should continue to be driven down stream for 6 miles versus circling around the boaters. Perhaps this attests to how infrequently boaters come down this stretch of river. The rest of our 6 mile trip went without incident. There seemed to be some new construction on the Gorge tops but it was possible that we merely overlooked some structures on our last trip. One intriguing parcel had eye hooks in the bototom of the gorge and a structure 100 ft up a sheer cliff. That would be a harrowing rope ladder. With a few exceptions most of the private parcels do not seem to have access down to the river. An hour and forty minutes in we reached Punche Arroyo. For us, Punche Arroyo on the West side is the landmark that tells us we are almost done. Still have not gone up the Arroyo to explore it but it looks really interesting. I am intrigued by the geologist who suggested it used to be the mouth of the Rio San Antonio before the river changed course sometime in the past. I suspect there might be some archaeological sites in light of it's former role as a river in the past. That whole deserty west side smacks of antiquity. Not sure why. I've found what look to be game drives along arroyos toward the New Mexico border when we walked to the twin peak hills over there. Our trip ended with the gleaming airstream appearing around the bend. The kids were excited. What had taken 4 hours in tubes, only took 1 hr and 50 minutes in kayaks. They said it was a highlight of our trip. It was a good day.

Taos Box

Wow!  That was a blast. 1200 cfs.  Numerous intense moments.  My new favorite run knocking Browns Canyon out of first place. The scenery coupled w the rapids was amazing.  Granted our guide seemed to make a pt of putting us into the thick of things.  

In Love With The Taos Box

I am officially in love with the Taos Box section of the Rio Grande. It has everything going for it: Challenging Rapids which become more closely spaced as the trip progresses, spectacular, other worldly scenery, relatively inaccessible and so unspoiled. The water temperature was perfect. The company with Los Rios was great. I just can't get enough of it. I want to go again next week. Some folks followed the Dead or Phish. I want to follow the Taos Box.

Airstream alighting in the Gorge

Reading a delightful book on hermits. Makes me long all the more for the Gorge. What if I slipped the Airstream down into the Gorge. That would be a first. Hmmm.

A Hermit's Hut-building material trip

Tomorrow another trip to the Gorge laden with Home Depot Lumber and Wal-mart Tools.  Much to be trolleyed to the bottom including 500 lbs of cement pier blocks.  

Have conscripted JD and Bea into service.  Both have mixed feelings about coming.  I understand.  Despite my efforts to reduce the amount of toil that goes with the property, there is still much work to be done.  It is my vision to build a shed/kayak/sleeping structure that we can sleep in when we are there and use as a secure lockup for our belongings when we are not.

Looking at 8 x 15 which is within the county's non-permit required structure size.  I am building on removeable concrete blocks because all is ephemeral.  There is a remote risk of flood so I will design a high water platform escape place.

We will discuss stairs later.  Right now we need a shelter wall so we don't have to contend with the SW wind and snapping tarp sounds.

Longing to Return to The Rio Grande

O dry, prickly gorge. Surrounded by bandits and highwaymen. I long for you once more. Got a string of days. Hoping to make a trip out that way. See if the airstream is still there. If things have been stolen. Hoping to erect a basic fence like wall down below where we can sleep sheltered from the wind and cold. There is no such thing as a warm summer night in the San Luis Valley. The river has picked up at bit from the anemic 150 cfs it was running at Lobato earlier this month. 300 cfs might do the trick as far as a float trip. Wonder if I can convince the kids to accompany me on such a venture. Perhaps I can purchase and transport one more strong box for my belongings. Kind of itching to get down to Taos again as well. An interesting crime ridden place. A swirl of wealth and impoverished desperation creating a whirlpool of conflict. Always fun.

Garden in Gorge-Chinampa

Envisioning a chinampa like garden in bottom of gorge.  Using the nutrient rich river sediment to build up the beds in the low areas.  Perhaps the thermal gain of the rock will help with growth.

A Strong Tower

A cliff hugging edifice enthralls my imagination.  Shiny and impregnable-thumbing it's nose at the paint huffing reprobates and enviro-mental Taos come lately SoCal soy milk sippers.

Bam!  Right there!

Spring 2015-Return to the Rio

After many weeks fantasizing about places on the coast or on some lazy river, my attention has returned to the Rio Grande.  JD and Bea accompanied.  Jen always wants at least one person to come with me lest I fall off a cliff and can't get up.   I am trying to limit the work end of things to one bite sized project a trip so the kids don't feel like all they do is toil when they come up here.

The project this trip was to get a large construction site box to the bottom of the gorge.  The zipline, though untested with this kind of weight (100 lbs?) seemed the easiest and most feasible approach.  So we humped the heavy box up the sending ledge,  hooked her to the petzl trolley and away she went.  Great fun.  Beatrice admits that coming here is more fun now that we don't have to haul stuff up and down the gorge for hours on end.

Last night an epic battle was fought between the wind and our tarp tent.  It was not the most restful night of my life.  This experience convinced me that our next project needs to be constructing an 8x12 shed where we can camp out of the elements.  Bought six 10' cedar posts in Alamosa tonight.  Something to work on next trip.  Thinking of springing for bunk camp cots-four across to accomodate the fam.  Maybe it would be more sensible to construct 2 such sheds with an open windfree are in between.

Safety Goals on the Gorge

There are two main safety concerns when it comes to kids and the Gorge: lethal falls and drowning.  I was working on the fall side of safety when all of my equipment left onsite was stolen putting an abrupt stop to that project.  Now that I have purchased the equipment again I an start putting in safety rail.

The safest route we could find while still remaining within our 275 ft of river frontage finishes with an 8 and 18 foot ladder section at the bottom. The shelf between these two ladders is rather steeply pitched so I am installing a pipe railing in this section at this time.  The lava rock is rather heterogenous and so i find that one moment I'm drilling through  butter and the next my bit is being destroyed.

The bottom of the Gorge is where I want to be. The whoosh of rapids, the surround sound  of trickling water is a treat for one born and raised in an arid land.

Am finding little niches and grottos on the face of the gorge. Plan on taking a cue from the Anasazi and stashing items in these inaccesible areas.  Purchased some iron security bars from Pieces consignment in Taos.  Plan on affixing them along a 3 ft ledge so that would be thieves will think twice before attempting to steal from us again.

Zipline Baggage handler

So down by the river is where we want to be but one of the bummers that go with that is huffing our stuff in and out of the Gorge. There are cactus strewn ledges and two ladder runs. A pedestrian should be on his guard. A sherpa should be doubly concerned. Too dangerous. No fun (at least that's what the kids told me).

So I found a straight shot from up top to the big rock at our camp site and ran about 130 ft of 1/4" aircraft cable from point to point.  I then connected a boat ratchet up top and used paracord connected to a pulley on the wire to transport stuff up and down.  Stuff going down is a matter of gravity and friction braking with the paracord.  Going up I use a drill attached to the small ratchet 3/4" gear nut to power the ascent. My pulley is a petzl zipline trolley with black diamond carabiners. I used a walmart purchased come along at the bottom, 3/8" rawl 3" climbing bolts and 2 fixe climbing anchors on top and bottom.  So far so good.  I am a bit leery of working with rope (fingers getting caught, etc).  Nonetheless, it is a step toward making our time here more relaxing and less toilsome.

In Search of John Dunn's Hotel

So I recently found and purchased a small orgiginal snapshot ca. 1913 showing a long structure in what appears to be the Rio Grand Gorge. On the back, written in pencil it reads "Hotel or 'Halfway' house between (Taos) and Servietta (sp.) on the Rio Grande river to Milton, Utah" I felt fairly certain it was a picture of Dunn's famous hotel next to his equally famous river crossing. Decided to do some research to confirm this and was surprised to discover that no photo of the hotel seemed to exist on the internet. Snooped around the John Dunn Bridge via internet photos and could not identify any photos of ruins identified or otherwise that matched the photo. Was I crazy or was this photo what I thought it was. Next I arranged for a romantic overnight with my wife in Taos. Unbeknownst to her, part of the itinerary was to drive down a sketchy ice covered hill to John Dunn Bridge and tramp about in sticky clay and weeds looking for the structure in my photograph.

The Rio Iced Over

Took the wife to the property on our way to an overnight in Taos. This is the first time she has been to the property since we purchased it last spring. She seemed satisfied with the improved access but also hinted that she did not plan on spending any length of time there in the near future. What is this great divide between us. I love the wildness and element of danger that she detests. What can you do? She remains home with the creature comforts while I venture out to my cactus choked, precipitous, snake haunted eden.

Lean To Structure

Contemplating constructing a lean to shelter down in the bottom, utilizing the 9 and 13 foot sheets of tin I have acquired. I want to tie the structure in some fundamental way to the towering rock wall.